Hyperpigmentation 101 For Black Men

As a black man, you have different skin concerns and it’s important to cater to those, so you look and feel your best. One skin condition that affects black men more than others is hyperpigmentation.

The Skin of Color Society shares that hyperpigmentation is very common for black males with over 65% experiencing symptoms. Thankfully, it’s usually not harmful but it can seriously impact your self-esteem.

Let’s dive into what exactly hyperpigmentation is, what causes hyperpigmentation in black men, how you can treat it and how you can prevent it!

What is hyperpigmentation?

From a super basic definition, hyperpigmentation is any area of skin that is darker than the surrounding skin. That means that freckles, age spots and liver spots all fall into this category. You can also see much larger areas of skin affected by hyperpigmentation.

If you want the more scientific explanation, hyperpigmentation has to do with melanin. Melanin is the molecules in our skin, hair and eyes that give it it’s color. It’s related to shades of brown and black, so black men have more melanin in their skin than other skin types. When melanin is overproduced in certain areas of skin and not others, it leads to hyperpigmentation.

Depending on your skin tone, hyperpigmentation on black skin can show up in a variety of ways. Heathline shares that it can be:

  • tan

  • brown

  • dark brown

  • grey-brown

  • blue-grey

  • purple

  • black

What causes hyperpigmentation in black men?

A medical journal from 2019 shares that hyperpigmentation is one of the top five skin concerns dermatologists see in black men. Black men are more likely to develop hyperpigmentation since their skin already contains more melanin than other skin tones.

Hyperpigmentation in black men can be caused by a number of things including acne, ingrown hairs, underlying health conditions and sun exposure. To determine the cause of your hyperpigmentation, it’s important to see a dermatologist for proper diagnosis to determine which type of hyperpigmentation you have. Below we dive into the four types of hyperpigmentation seen in black men.

The Four Types of Hyperpigmentation Seen in Black Men  

Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Everyone’s skin responds differently to stressors, but a change in color can be a common response for black men. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is a catch all term for any types of hyperpigmentation caused by “trauma” to the skin.

  • acne

  • pseudofolliculitis barbae aka razor burn and ingrown hair

  • eczema

  • contact dermatitis

  • psoriasis

  • lichen planus

  • lupus

  • infections that cause rashes, blisters, or sores

  • insect bites

  • cuts

  • burns

Many black men will experience growing areas of hyperpigmentation after years of shaving followed by razor burn left untreated.

Melasma

Melasma is a specific subset of hyperpigmentation that black men can experience, although it’s much more common in women. Unlike PIH, you won’t be able to pinpoint a specific cause of melasma. It’s typically linked to pregnancy and hormonal changes, but it can also be linked to sun exposure and certain medications.

Melasma is most common on the face and will look kind of like a splotchy mask with irregular edges. It can also occur on the neck, arms, and chest.

Periorbital Hyperpigmentation

This is the official medical term for dark circles under and around your eyes. This is one of the times where the popular belief is true—dark circles can be caused by exhaustion and over-tiredness.

An older journal breaks down the common causes:

  • lack of adequate sleep (40%)

  • frequent cosmetic use (36.50%)

  • frequent eye rubbing (32.50%)

  • not wearing contacts or glasses if you’re nearsighted (12%)

They’re also strongly associated with genetics, stress, and allergies.

Acanthosis Nigricans

Acanthosis Nigricans is a bit different than the other types of hyperpigmentation listed above because it’s not actually caused by an over production of melanin. It’s an over production of skin. So, you have some areas of skin that start to develop thicker layers which results in a darker appearance. You’ll notice it in areas where you skin bends and folds, think neck, elbows, armpits, etc.

It’s not actually a disease itself, but a symptom of an underlying disease. Most commonly it’s related to insulin levels and therefore diabetes and pre diabetes. In rare cases, it can be linked to autoimmune disorders, types of cancer, and endocrine disorders.

Can hyperpigmentation be permanent? 

It depends. Hyperpigmentation that affects only the top layer of skin, the epidermis, is easier to treat and can be resolved. If it’s gone deeper to the second layer of skin, the dermis, it can be much harder to treat and sometimes permanent.

Frustratingly, it tends to be more persistent and harder to treat in darker skin tones. But the American Academy of Dermatology shares that with proper treatment, most cases of hyperpigmentation will fade in 6 to 12 months.

How do black men treat hyperpigmentation? 

If you’re struggling with hyperpigmentation, treatment as soon as possible is key for the best results! Below we’ve compiled some of the best treatments for black men with hyperpigmentation. And remember, consistency is key.

Treat the Underlying Cause

If you’re struggling with severe hyperpigmentation, be sure to visit a dermatologist to identify the underlying cause. If it’s something like eczema or allergies, treating those conditions will help treat your hyperpigmentation.

Use Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is a great skincare ingredient for black men with hyperpigmentation. It helps chemically exfoliate your skin and bring new skin to the surface. Think of it like shedding the hyperpigmentation layers to reveal new skin with your typical skin tone.

Use Retinol

Even if you don’t have hyperpigmentation, retinol is a hero ingredient. For treating hyperpigmentation, it works like glycolic acid in the sense that it promotes cellular turnover aka new skin generation to reveal healthy layers of skin.

How do black men prevent hyperpigmentation? 

Even if you’re currently treating hyperpigmentation, you’ll want to be sure to prevent any further damage. Follow these steps below to avoid further hyperpigmentation.

Wear SPF

Yes, everyone needs to wear SPF and wear it every day. The sun can wreak havoc on the skin and damage this skin barrier which leads to a list of skin disorders, including hyperpigmentation. We recommend at least an SPF 30 applied to dry skin every morning.

Shave Properly

Since irritation, ingrown hair and razor burn can be big causes of hyperpigmentation, it’s important to prevent that level of stress on your skin. Here are some quick tips:

  • Be sure to prep your skin with a warm shower or warm towel on the area you’re going to have for at least 5 minutes

  • Use a shaving lubricant

  • Avoid shaving products with fragrances

  • Shave with the grain

  • Maintain your razor and use a sharp blade

  • Follow up with a soothing post-shave balm with a soothing ingredient like aloe vera

Take Medications as Instructed

If take improperly, medications and prescriptions can have a list of adverse effects including hyperpigmentation. If you started a new medication, are taking it as instructed and still experiencing side effects like hyperpigmentation, speak to your doctor.

Good Skincare

As mentioned above, maintaining a good skincare routine including a chemical exfoliant and retinol will not only help treat hyperpigmentation in black men, but it will help prevent it. The ideal skincare routine for men includes a gentle cleanser, exfoliation 2-3 times per week, retinol every day or every other day, a moisturizer and an SPF in the AM. Good skincare helps strengthen your skin barrier and prevent hyperpigmentation, aging, acne, and razor burn.

If you’re dealing with hyperpigmentation and need help when it comes to skincare. We’ve made it simple with THE BOSS duo. It’s the simplest, most effective 2-step routine for men formulated with retinol, glycolic acid, aloe vera and other key ingredients to help treat hyperpigmentation and prevent further inflammation and ingrown hair. Take a look here and be sure to join our mailing list for more free skincare advice.

 

 

 

 

 

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